What I’ve learned from this experiment in warp rep:
1) The Dyer & Philips loom does appear to be better at weaving with closely sett yarns, thanks to it’s method of raising and lowering shafts at the same time.
2) I really have been a mental clutz lately. I thought I’d taken the wpi for the cotton from my weaving class notes but I mistakenly used the one for the Bendigo Classic yarn.
3) So I re-threaded the reed. I had it in my head that the sett needed to be double what you use for tabby. No, it needs to be double the wpi – four times what you use for tabby. Which means I could only weave a four inch wide strip on the number of heddles I have…
4) … if I’d bothered un-weaving what I’d done and re-threading again. I didn’t, because when looking for information on rep I eventually found a q&a where the answer was that 8/2 cotton wasn’t a good choice for warp rep, as it’s fuzzy and will stick to itself when sett that closely. Mercerised cotton is better as it’s smoother – yet it shouldn’t be rope-like as it’s suppose to flatted out to cover the weft.
5) I didn’t bother using a thick and thin yarn, as I was only testing to see if the loom would cope. However, from watching videos I can see it would be very satisfying to see a pattern emerge.
6) Rep takes ages to thread thanks to the insane number of warp ends, but weaves really fast. A really good tip I picked up was to use doubled warp ends – covers the weft well but is faster to thread and doesn’t use as many heddles.
7) It is still not quite worth buying a book on rep yet. I’m resisting, because there’s no point buying a book on a weave structure only to discover your loom isn’t suited to it. However, if I remember next time I’m at the Guild, I’ll see if I can borrow one.
8) I kinda want to buy a countermarch floor loom now. I won’t though. No room for it!